Let’s get something started!

Below you'll find a basic questionnaire to get me started on designing your knife! Each blade has its own uniqueness and difference in value. But this will give you a pretty dang close estimate for what the blade will cost. Once this form is complete it will give me a good understanding of what your looking for so I can get you the correct price. That being said on a mono-steel blade I typically charge around $40 per blade inch measured from beginning of the ricasso to tip of blade in a straight line. Swords, hatchets, spears, laminated steels (damascus, san-mai, etc ) and other projects are not included in this price range. Laminated steels (damascus, san-mai, steel cable) have their own difficulties and other challenges on top of the usual forging, heat treating, and other steps to making a good quality knife. That being said for those they are typically around $90 per blade inch varying in price on complexity and material. All that being said I require 1/3rd up front for a down payment both for to purchase steel, Handle materials and other items need to complete the project. If you are on a budget but want something unique then just fill out the name and email box explaining what you want in the box marked I'm on a budget directly below the email box and we can meet in the middle somewhere and probably make it work!

All the photos for the forum are at the bottom of the page

I DO NOT RECOMMEND NOR WILL I USE UNSTABLIZED WOOD FOR KITCHEN KNIVES !!!

Below is a brief summary of summary of common kitchen knife types and their uses :

Chef's Knife: The workhorse of the kitchen. Its long, curved blade allows for rocking cuts on a cutting board, making it ideal for chopping vegetables, slicing meats, and general food preparation. Available in various lengths, typically 8-10 inches.
Paring Knife: A small knife with a short, rigid blade. Designed for intricate tasks like peeling fruits and vegetables, trimming, coring, and other detail work where precision is key. Usually 3 to 4 inches.
Serrated Knife/Bread Knife: Characterized by its saw-like edge. This serration allows the knife to easily slice through crusty bread, tomatoes, and other foods with a tough exterior and soft interior without crushing them. Usually 8 to 9 inches.
Utility Knife: A mid-sized knife that falls between a chef's knife and a paring knife. Versatile for tasks that are too large for a paring knife but too small or delicate for a chef's knife. Good for slicing smaller vegetables, fruits, and sandwiches. Usually 4 to 7 inches.
Boning Knife: Features a thin, narrow blade, often with some flexibility. Specifically designed for removing bones from meat, poultry, and fish. The flexibility helps navigate around bones and joints. Usually 6 to 9 inches.
Cleaver: A heavy, rectangular knife with a thick blade. Used for chopping through bones, tough meats, and dense vegetables. Requires significant force and is not intended for delicate work. Siberian choppers are included in this category. Typically 7 to 9 inches.
Santoku Knife: A Japanese-style knife with a flat blade and a sheepsfoot or slightly rounded tip. Its design is well-suited for chopping, dicing, and mincing. The wider blade also allows for scooping up chopped ingredients. Typically 5 to 8 inches.
Fillet knife: A very thin and flexible blade, designed specifically for filleting fish. The flexibility allows the knife to glide along the bones and skin of the fish, separating the fillet with minimal waste. Often has a pointed tip for precise work. Usually 5 to 9 inches. All that being said lets get started!

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Name

First Name

Last Name

Email

Phone

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Build me something on a budget

If your on a budget or just feel like giving me the reins completely then just type in the budget and we can get something started. Note you still need to type smiths choice on the rest of the boxes

What blade profile are you looking for?

Anything serrated or scalloped will have a higher quote due to the difficulty of doing said scallops and serrations and the time required to do said serrations. Anything skeletonized will also have a added fee due to me having to cut it out.

Didn't see what your looking for? describe what you want below.

How long do you want the blade to be?

You could always type smiths choice and leave it up to me

Tang design?

What tang design would you like? Would like to note that these drawings suck and the handle shapes will look way better that these suck ass drawings... but you get the idea... -Full tang The tang runs the entire length of the handle and is visible along the spine and bottom. It will have scales glued to the sides of the tang with pins to keep lateral sheering of the glue from happening. Full tang knives are known for their strength and stability. If your looking for a hard user that can be beat and abused this is the way to go. This also usually the cheapest option due to its simplicity. -Hidden tang The tang is embedded into the handle material and is not visible. Hidden tang knives are lighter than full tang knives and can have unique handle designs. However, the thin tang provides less strength than a thicker full tang. Full tang is the strongest, cheapest and easiest for me to do usually but not always the best depending on the style of blade your trying to accomplish. You could always type smiths choice and just leave it up to me

Handle design

What handle shape are you looking for? I don't have a good photo for this so you will have to bear with me here... I smash things with a hammer I don't do computer work... but none the less you get either full tang like what's pictured below or hidden tang with a coke bottle or octagonal shaped handle which is very common in Japanese style knives

Handle material

What would you like the handle material to be? Most resin is made in house be my wife and can be customized to to what ever theme or colors you want. Wood is always nice and usually the cheapest option but it will eventually fail if in an environment where there's a lot of moisture. Micarta is always a safe bet due to it being a canvas compressed in resin so its very durable, water resistant, and doesn't get slick when your hands are wet but they are usually bland in color and not very flashy. Now stabilized wood is always classy. It looks nice and is sealed in resin so the wood will not expand or contract due to moisture and it can be dyed to make stunning designs with the grain. But stabilized wood is expensive. Both resin and stabilized material will add to the total estimate due to it not being cheap at all...

What color do you what your handle to be?

For wood you have dark, light, and reddish. But for the micarta usually I can get a vintage green, black, red, blue, yellow etc. simple colors... If your going with resin the try to get a little descriptive with it and Midknight arts will create a one of a kind piece trying to get as close as possible to your description.

Stone washed or satin finish?

Stone washed or satin finish on the blade? I prefer stone washed over satin it darkens the blade some and seals it a little better delaying the rust and patina longer than satin. My stone washing is achieved by soak the blade in coffee for 24hours which darkens the steel then I "wash" the blade by tossing it in a vibrating tumbler with a media to give it that distress look. Satin I hand sand to 400 grit and that's where i leave it

Blade designs

Tang designs

Handle shapes

Stone washed finish

Satin finish

Some other kitchen stuff I’ve done